Aleppo soap labels almost always say “laurel oil.” The word is the same everywhere, but it covers two very different ingredients, and only one of them is allowed in cosmetics sold in Europe.
Seed and berry, two parts of the same plant
The bay laurel tree, Laurus nobilis, produces a fleshy fruit known as a berry or drupe. Pressing this berry gives the green, fatty oil that has been used for centuries in Aleppo to make soap. Inside the berry sits a seed, which yields a different oil: laurel seed oil.
Two oils, one common name. That’s enough to confuse plenty of shoppers. On an INCI ingredient list, the distinction often comes down to a single word: “fruit oil” or “berry oil” on one side, “seed oil” or “kernel oil” on the other.
Why laurel seed oil is banned in cosmetics
Laurel seed oil contains prulaurasin and amygdalin, compounds that release hydrogen cyanide on contact with water. That’s toxic, and it’s why laurel seed oil (Laurus nobilis) appears in Annex II of the EU cosmetics regulation (EC No 1223/2009), the list of substances banned from products sold in Europe.
Laurel berry oil isn’t affected by this ban. It’s the only one of the two that belongs in genuine Aleppo soap.
The oil behind the soap’s color and scent
Laurel berry oil is what sets real Aleppo soap apart from a plain olive oil soap. The higher its share in the recipe, the deeper green the soap looks when cut, and the more its woody, slightly spiced scent comes through. It’s also the oil associated with the soothing properties sensitive skin looks for.
How to check what’s in your soap
The simplest way is to read the ingredient list. Genuine Aleppo soap has only four ingredients: saponified olive oil, laurel berry oil, water, and lye. At Maison du Laurier, this recipe is followed to the letter, with laurel content ranging from 5% to 55% depending on skin needs. Our soap maker, a partner at Organic Bio Tech, oversees every step of production, from cooking in the copper cauldron to the nine-month curing period that gives the soap its golden crust and green core.
This attention to composition also guards against imitations. Some manufacturers rely on confusion between the two oils, or on vague packaging, to sell soap that has nothing to do with Aleppo beyond the name. Checking the INCI list is the most reliable habit, well before the packaging color or the price tag.
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FAQ
What’s the difference between laurel berry oil and laurel seed oil?
Laurel berry oil comes from the flesh of the bay laurel fruit and is used to make Aleppo soap. Laurel seed oil, extracted from the seed inside the berry, contains compounds that release hydrogen cyanide on contact with water. That’s why it’s on the list of banned substances in European cosmetics.
How do I know if my Aleppo soap follows this rule?
Check the ingredient list on the packaging. Genuine Aleppo soap has only four ingredients: saponified olive oil, laurel berry oil (often listed as “Laurus Nobilis Fruit Oil”), water, and lye.
Does the laurel berry oil percentage matter for skin?
Yes. The higher it is, the more the soap suits sensitive or problem skin. A lower percentage works well for everyday use.
